Here’s the tutorial for my Jupukka Jacket knock off, originally posted at So You Think You’re Crafty, and I thought I would bring it home!
This jacket was made entirely from my stash, I have actually been carrying the blue cotton velvet around for YEARS, and was so pleased to find such a good use for it! I drafted the pattern myself, but if you wanted to make one, I am sure you could adjust a shirt pattern to overlap a little in the front, and have the right neckline. I serged around all of my pieces with a 1/4 inch wide stitch, and then sewed the shoulder seams together.
The next step was to fold the serged edge in, and use it’s width to gauge the depth of my blanket stitch, I used a brown worsted weight 100% wool yarn to do a double blanket stitch around the edge of everything.
the double blanket stitch (I have no idea if this is what it really is called, I just keep calling it that) is where you use the same hole in your fabric twice rather than moving on to a new section for every stitch. (not sure if that makes sense, but I think you can see what I did in the pictures.) I just used a large darning needle for the stitching.
Next I dyed some cream worsted weight wool in green, and yellow (the only two colors I didn’t have in my stash.)
for a grand total of red, brown, yellow, green, light blue, and dark blue.
for the sleeves, I started by single crocheting through my blanket stitch in red, with 2 rows around the sleeves. I used a size 6 crochet hook for this, simply picking up stitches that fit the fabric, without packing in too many, or so few that it pulled too tightly.
That was all the crocheting that the sleeves took before I finished them off by hand stitching brown micro-fleece to the inside, using a very small blanket stitch.
I then used blue yarn to whip stitch the sleeves into sleeve tubes.
for the body, I began by going all the way around with a single crochet row of brown, then red, and then I focused only on the collar, by single crocheting green, dark blue, light blue, yellow, 2 rows of lt blue, dk blue, green, red, dk blue, 2 lt blue, yellow, brown, and then red (this is the same order as the original jacket) then back to going all the way around the jacket again, came green dk blue, lt blue, and then yellow for the final row.
at this point I had a bit of a panic, as the colors were too bright, so I actually stick everything into a pot of pale purple acid dye (it was scary after all that work) the red became a nice maroon, the green was slightly saddened, the dark blue and light blue became a little warmer, and the yellow was made to be a little browner (since purple is the complimentary color to yellow, it makes it brown when added.) Because the dye was an acid dye, it didn’t affect the cotton fabric, because it only clings to protein fibers. (a lot of the pictures are after being dyed, so for the pre-over-dyed colors you could look at the yarn picture to see the brightness of the red, etc.)
next I hand stitched the brown fleece lining (again using a blanket stitch.) I didn’t take off any of the 1/4 inch seam allowance, so some of the fleece goes onto the crocheting.
The crocheting is completely overlapped and hand stitched on the sides, and sewn 4″ down the side.
The sleeves were then whip stitched on in the pale blue wool (I dyed some extra lengths of yarn in the purple the same time as the jacket, so that I had some for the tassels and the stitching.)
here’s what the tiny blanket stitch looks like in the fleece.
on the inside of the jacket, I used 3 small antique mother of pearl buttons, one for a hand stitched loop that holds the cross on the inside, and the other two prevent the ties from ripping through the body.
the button loop was made from thread, that was blanket stitched around, it’s a traditional way for making a good quality loop in clothing.
this picture shows the open sides pretty well,
The ties are made through chaining the light blue wool, and then adding simple tassels to the end, 2 of the ties are sewn through the fabric with the buttons over the top for stability, and 2 are sewn down to the crocheted edge.
and you can see the knitted cuff here, I simply used 4 size 5 double pointed sock needles to knit a cuff in the round (2 rows of green, 5 of dark blue, 3 of light blue and 10 of yellow.) in a pearl, knit rib. the blue whip-stitching shows pretty well too!
the shawl collar lies fairly well against the neck because I shaped it by feel as I went, around the back of the neck, I would skip a chain every now and then to pull it in, I am afraid I pulled out a row every now and then to get the shape right, but it was entirely by feel so there wasn’t a plan per say.
The cuff knitting was just picked up by the loops in the crocheting and knitted in the round.
I hope that all of this makes sense! this entire jacket was made with blanket stitches, whip stitches, single crochets, and plain/pearl knitting – not anything a beginner couldn’t work their way through.
I’d like to thank my husband for taking most of my pictures, it’s not his thing, but he was really great (and my best cheerleader!) The fleece lining has been perfect for our freezing winter here in Korea! and I just love the easy fit!
I hope you like my version of the jacket, I already have an order from my daughter to make her one in her favorite colors for next Christmas!