Sew All 26 Guest Post {M} Military Menswear

Today’s post, is a guest posting for one of my favorite bloggers Katy Dill, if you aren’t familiar with Katy, you should stop everything and go check out her blog, No Big Dill (fair warning you will spend a whole afternoon just oooohhing and ahhhhhhing over her amazing work!) Katy has 6 beautiful children, and makes all of them the most stunning custom outfits, (in addition to sewing amazing creations for herself!) When I got Katy’s email asking if I would be willing to be part of her alphabetical sewing series,

I was sooooooo excited, and jumped at the chance to participate (I may have squeed a little like a fan girl when I got the email!)

Anyway, my letter is M, and I decided to make Menswear for my husband Paul, with a vintage Military flair, so that counts for my “M”s right? For anyone that doesn’t know, Paul is in the US Air Force, and has a pretty great sense of his own style – he is also pretty tall and thin, so while most clothes look really good on him, it’s hard to find things in his size! (bodies tend to be too wide, and sleeves too short) When Paul finds something he LOVES, he wears it a lot; which is what happened with a jacket Paul got for $25 once at a J Crew traveling trunk show. The jacket had no sizing in it, but it was labeled with a hand written label that said “Military Officer Field Jacket” and “Photo Sample” so the nearest we can guess, it was made to be used in a catalog shot, and was modeled by someone Paul’s size, because it was just PERFECT for him. ANYWAY I tell you this story, so I can explain the jacket I made; I used Paul’s favorite field jacket for the pattern of my jacket. (Here’s a picture I found of Paul wearing his jacket.)

I pinned the jacket down to a piece of paper covered cardboard, and traced around all the individual pieces; after I had all the pieces traced, I added the seam allowances to each individual piece, and was ready to make my replica!

The original jacket is made out of a beige twill, but my version is made from a very thick boiled wool,

I added the same style of single welted pockets to my version, as the original J Crew jacket.

Paul is really excited to have another “go to” outer wear piece, especially as we are going into winter here in Korea.

In order to appeal to Paul’s love of military history, I added felted wool patches to each of the sleeves (which are his favorite part.) The one on the left sleeve is the emblem of the US Army Air Corp, before WWII.

Here’s the back, I was so excited to use this gorgeous wool, I have had it in my stash for several years, just waiting for the right project.

On the right sleeve, I used the emblem of the US Army Air Corp, during WWII. I hand sewed the emblems by blanket stitching the layers together, and then blanket stitching them to the jacket.

The jacket is unlined, so it isn’t too bulky, although it is still warm with the really dense wool (I broke 4 needles on this project, it is THICK.)

The shoulder yoke is the only place the jacked is lined, with a lovely piece of Irish linen I had left over from another project. (The pockets were also done in the same linen.) I used pinking shears on all of the seam allowances, since the wool is too felted to fray, I just wanted them to look more decorative.

I added a label, and a little piece of twill tape, so it can be hung on a hook.

The sleeves have buttoned cuffs, in fact the whole construction is a bit like a vintage denim jacket come to think of it….

Anywho, Paul is really pleased with how it turned out, it is just his style, and I am sure it will get a lot of wear!

Thanks so much Katy for the inspiration to sew some Military Menswear, and thanks Paul for being a willing model!

  22 comments for “Sew All 26 Guest Post {M} Military Menswear

  1. December 3, 2013 at 2:13 am

    That is one awesome coat! I would wear one like that too. What a great job on such a great look!

  2. December 3, 2013 at 8:48 am

    Hooray! I love it! So professional looking. And great job on recreating his other jacket 🙂

  3. December 3, 2013 at 9:32 am

    A really great coat. Very impressive.

  4. December 3, 2013 at 10:20 am

    Well done!

  5. Ali
    December 3, 2013 at 11:50 am

    Awesome! Its a tricky thing, making clothes for a husband, especially if he’s particular about clothes. You obviously hit the mark dead on. Nice!

  6. December 3, 2013 at 12:14 pm

    Wow! The coat is amazing!

  7. December 3, 2013 at 12:49 pm

    That looks amazing! I think I like it better than the original.

  8. December 3, 2013 at 1:16 pm

    Oh my goodness you are amazing!
    That is an incredible job, and it fits your husband perfectly!
    ~Michelle

  9. December 3, 2013 at 10:11 pm

    WOW! incredible… I’d never dream of sewing a mens jacket… looks so great though!

  10. December 3, 2013 at 10:11 pm

    Stunning jacket! Well done!

  11. December 4, 2013 at 2:18 am

    Wow … wow … wow … Amazing … great, great job!! Beautiful work — good lookin’ jacket (and hubby)

  12. December 4, 2013 at 4:10 am

    This is fantastic and your sewing is impeccable! (I’m curious – how did you go about making the sleeve pattern, though? having a hard time wrapping my mind around how that would work…)

    • December 4, 2013 at 11:21 pm

      I laid the one seam on my paper, and traced it as far as I could before the fold from where the sleeve was sewn, then I flipped it over and traced the other half. This particular jacket had a 2 part sleeve, so I made 2 pieces, but it work the same way with a 1 part sleeve, as long as you can lay it flat in half. Does that make sense?

    • December 6, 2013 at 4:43 am

      thanks ~ that does make sense and it’s pretty much what I came up with after mulling over it awhile 🙂 although, I still think it’d be tricky 😉
      ~ Tracy

  13. December 4, 2013 at 4:33 am

    Love it! Beautiful job!
    Thanks, Paul, for your service!

  14. December 4, 2013 at 4:46 am

    What a great jacket, and it fits him so well! Love the patches on the sleeves!

  15. December 4, 2013 at 4:54 am

    Wow, your jacket turned out incredible! Very impressive! My hubby would love that style.. 🙂

  16. December 4, 2013 at 11:35 am

    AMAZING! 🙂 Love the peek inside too.

  17. December 4, 2013 at 1:53 pm

    What a beautiful jacket!

  18. December 4, 2013 at 10:21 pm

    Wow that is beautiful work, I love that you made it with no pattern to speak of! I am inspired to try some garment construction!

  19. December 31, 2013 at 12:02 pm

    Having seen your other jackets, it comes as no surprise that you were able to put this one together so beautifully. I love how usable the things that you make are. Beautiful.

  20. January 5, 2014 at 11:16 pm

    What a fantastic jacket.

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