Sew All 26 Guest Post {M} Military Menswear

Today’s post, is a guest posting for one of my favorite bloggers Katy Dill, if you aren’t familiar with Katy, you should stop everything and go check out her blog, No Big Dill (fair warning you will spend a whole afternoon just oooohhing and ahhhhhhing over her amazing work!) Katy has 6 beautiful children, and makes all of them the most stunning custom outfits, (in addition to sewing amazing creations for herself!) When I got Katy’s email asking if I would be willing to be part of her alphabetical sewing series,

I was sooooooo excited, and jumped at the chance to participate (I may have squeed a little like a fan girl when I got the email!)

Anyway, my letter is M, and I decided to make Menswear for my husband Paul, with a vintage Military flair, so that counts for my “M”s right? For anyone that doesn’t know, Paul is in the US Air Force, and has a pretty great sense of his own style – he is also pretty tall and thin, so while most clothes look really good on him, it’s hard to find things in his size! (bodies tend to be too wide, and sleeves too short) When Paul finds something he LOVES, he wears it a lot; which is what happened with a jacket Paul got for $25 once at a J Crew traveling trunk show. The jacket had no sizing in it, but it was labeled with a hand written label that said “Military Officer Field Jacket” and “Photo Sample” so the nearest we can guess, it was made to be used in a catalog shot, and was modeled by someone Paul’s size, because it was just PERFECT for him. ANYWAY I tell you this story, so I can explain the jacket I made; I used Paul’s favorite field jacket for the pattern of my jacket. (Here’s a picture I found of Paul wearing his jacket.)

I pinned the jacket down to a piece of paper covered cardboard, and traced around all the individual pieces; after I had all the pieces traced, I added the seam allowances to each individual piece, and was ready to make my replica!

The original jacket is made out of a beige twill, but my version is made from a very thick boiled wool,

I added the same style of single welted pockets to my version, as the original J Crew jacket.

Paul is really excited to have another “go to” outer wear piece, especially as we are going into winter here in Korea.

In order to appeal to Paul’s love of military history, I added felted wool patches to each of the sleeves (which are his favorite part.) The one on the left sleeve is the emblem of the US Army Air Corp, before WWII.

Here’s the back, I was so excited to use this gorgeous wool, I have had it in my stash for several years, just waiting for the right project.

On the right sleeve, I used the emblem of the US Army Air Corp, during WWII. I hand sewed the emblems by blanket stitching the layers together, and then blanket stitching them to the jacket.

The jacket is unlined, so it isn’t too bulky, although it is still warm with the really dense wool (I broke 4 needles on this project, it is THICK.)

The shoulder yoke is the only place the jacked is lined, with a lovely piece of Irish linen I had left over from another project. (The pockets were also done in the same linen.) I used pinking shears on all of the seam allowances, since the wool is too felted to fray, I just wanted them to look more decorative.

I added a label, and a little piece of twill tape, so it can be hung on a hook.

The sleeves have buttoned cuffs, in fact the whole construction is a bit like a vintage denim jacket come to think of it….

Anywho, Paul is really pleased with how it turned out, it is just his style, and I am sure it will get a lot of wear!

Thanks so much Katy for the inspiration to sew some Military Menswear, and thanks Paul for being a willing model!

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